August 30, 2011, town shore are 5-7+ foot (Hawaiian scale)! So, the surf forecasters got it right this time and actually almost under-called this humongous south swell that is smacking down as we speak. I got beat down yesterday when I went to Concessions and Big Rights by the solid 4 and 5 foot sets that came through. I managed to live through the session with a little bit of water up my nose, a couple bruises on my leg, and a super sore body.
A few of my friends and I (and most sane surfers) decided to sit today out and probably will tomorrow too, so we don’t snap our surfboards or our necks. We are brainstorming the perfect, safe, inside break that might be surfable tomorrow, but fat chance because the swell is forecasted to get just a tad bigger tomorrow. Hats off to the pros out surfing the today and tomorrow, get barreled!